Repair the connector of the ibook
clamshell's power supply
Warning : I decline all responsibilities in the event
of problem following handling
This repair applies to all types of transformer for ibook
clamshell and powerbook. The problem is simple, the owner of
the transformer sees sparks in the sheath when it connects
the transformer on the sector.
The yellow arrow shows the zone with problems..
There aren't other solutions, it's necessary to open the
connector to re-use that of origin (I don't have another
one, contrary Patrice
Freney). If not, I believe that I would have combined a
jack and a cinch to keep the impossibility of direct
- > I cross delicately according to the line until the
passage of cable.
When the plastic protection was cut, it's necessary to
take down. I use for that of my lever (my fetish tool).
It's opened, the yellow arrow points the place of the
It clearly here is seen also, as well as the used tools.
We move back ferrite and fall on a stud from hot
adhesive. It will not resist the lever
We can see the welding on the lower part of the
connector. It must be correctly unsoldered.
The two parts are well assembled, not means of separating
them easily, and with grips I inevitably will damage them.
-> I place a grip tightened by a rubber band right before
I try all to remove out of cabochon (thinking that one or
two blows would be enough, I had taken one of my blades of
Unfortunately, that holds really well - > to preserve
my blade, I operate with the pin-drift.
To arrive at this.
We must remove protection.
Who is placed on hot adhesive. -> the lever miracle is
And one sees appearing (yellow arrow) the stem which one
Heat-shrinkable sleeve is seen and what I thought of
being a protection proves to be a conductive.
The yellow arrow points the unsoldered part, and the blue
one, the component embedded in the hot adhesive (or
Cut out with the cutter.
Use of the grip to withdraw.
Open without damaging the component.
We can see more clearly :-)
One cuts the cable after the short circuit.
One strips the cable without damaging.
A first heat-shrinkable sleeve is passed.
The two ends are galvanized. Personally, I always put a
small drop of welding on the breakdown of iron, I heat the
wire one or two seconds and I bring the welding by contact
on the heated part.
One unsolders the wire on the connector of the top which
one replaces at once by the good. Then, one slips a piece of
heat-shrinkable sleeve on the braid which one galvanized.
One can then weld the braid onto the connector of bottom
(of the medium). I preferred to resolder the component which
was connected there.
The other side.
One heats the first sheath, goes up the second and
A little hot adhesive to maintain the whole in place
(what will obstruct the next opening).
The end of the component.
One gives the cap and one folds the stem of the component
All the elements are re-assembled.
The arrow points the end of the component.
That one guesses funker under the hot adhesive (or
silicone, I don't know).
We can close all.
Here, I hesitated to close again with the hot adhesive...
... I preferred to a colson.